Maria Nasir
A Trip to Remember
It was the July of 2022. Finally a liberating summer post-Covid and we had so many reasons to celebrate. It was the year of our Silver Jubilee Wedding Anniversary, our elder daughter was now a university graduate, the younger was done with her O’Levels and the family was getting together after two long years of worldwide travel restrictions. So we decided to make it a very special vacation. Everybody voted for a trip to Turkey. So Turkey it was! After a sleepless night’s waiting and exhausting travel, we finally landed in Istanbul sometime in the early afternoon. It was everything we had imagined it to be and much more. Already a sensory overload – something straight out of fairytale.
Istanbul Airport
Istanbul International airport (IST) is one of the two in Istanbul. It’s larger and located on the European side. I think it’s one of the prettiest and most commuter friendly in the world. It gives you a preview of the kaleidoscope of sights, sounds and flavors you’re about to experience. It offers infinite shopping options, free wi-fi, children’s play area, prayer rooms and art galleries. There is an impressive number of restaurants and cafes that offer local and international culinary experience. Moreover there are nap zones and spa treatments at the airport to help you recharge and refresh if you have a long layover. We made it a point to explore IST properly on our way back.
Istanbul Tourist Car Rentals
We rushed to find the car and driver that we had hired online beforehand with a local tourist agency. IST is nearly 35km away from Sultanahmet but it took us almost 1.5 hours to navigate our way through airport controls as the walking distances inside the airport are enormous. It was a spacious, super comfortable, Mercedes Sprinter vehicle – that’s what most tourist companies use to take you around. A bit pricey during the peak tourist season (June – August) but the best decision we made for commute to and from airports and intercity travel – fast and worry-free. For travel within Istanbul we mostly walked and used modes of public transport.
Istanbul Public Transport
Istanbul has a very good system of public transport. But for a tourist it is a bit tricky to learn to use it at first. It’s actually trickier to get the metro card. Once you get the card, you can use it for all public transport – tram, buses and ferry.
Istanbul Hotel Stays
Istanbul Where to Stay
We allocated five days to exploring Istanbul – three at the beginning and two at the end of our trip. My two pence – at least set aside a whole week just to explore Istanbul. The city has such rich and multilayered cultural background that you can spend days wandering the streets but still won’t be able to do justice to it’s beauty. What makes Istanbul so unique is the fact that it occupies two continents. One part of the city lies in Europe and the other part in Asia. While it’s commercial and historic center lies on the European side, the Asian side offers a perspective on diverse neighborhoods. We stayed for three days in Fatih and another two in Taksim.
Sultan Ahmet, Fatih – Traditional European Side
In Fatih, we stayed at Hotel Best Point. The hotel was on a quaint little street, at walking distance from Sultan Ahmet Square. This area is the heart of the traditional part of the European side. It was the center of power during the Byzantine and Ottoman empires and is home to iconic landmarks like Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque. It’s ideal to stay in this area so you can easily walk to most of the attractions. Most hotels in this area are family run businesses. The one we stayed in was cozy, clean and beautifully decorated in traditional Turkish style. The whole street has vibrant night life and various restaurants that serve delicious Turkish food.
Taksim Square – Modern European Side
After a very exciting trip through many different landscapes and cities in Turkey, we dedicated our last two days once again to Istanbul. This time it was all about exploring the modern side of Istanbul and shopping. Well, with three women in the mix, you can’t blame us for dedicating a whole day to shopping. Though the only guy with us, my hubby, was the most ardent shopaholic amongst us. Our hotel this time was near Taksim Sqaure, on walking distance from Istiklal Street which is a must-visit for architecture fans, shopaholics and first- time visitors. This area is the center of modern Istanbul with the central station of metro network, hotels, cafes and monuments.
Istanbul Food Scene
Authentic Turkish Flavors
I had heard so much about the Turkish food experience that I was very eager to try it. We were fed a pretty decent breakfast and snacks on the Turkish Airline but by the time we reached our hotel, it was past lunch time. We wanted our first meal in Istanbul to be really special so we chose a restaurant in Sultan Ahmet with a rooftop view and authentic Turkish cuisine. As we were starving, we ordered a mezze platter to start with. It included hummus, Haydari , acili eme, baba ganoush and pickles served with pita bread. Then came a feast of kebabs – adana and shish served over fragrant rice.
Istanbul Street Food
While sightseeing and shopping, we tried to explore the Istanbul street food scene. The most wonderful thing is that Istanbul has a variety of options for tourists with different budgets. And you’ll find consistently good quality food whether fine-dinning or eating from a street-side vendor. Buy a roasted sweetcorn to wash down with a glass of fresh pomegranate juice or a Lahmacun with soothing Turkish tea – you’ll find the food always delightful. Roaming in Istanbul what you shouldn’t miss is fresh fruit juices and Ayran (salty yogurt drink) to quench your thirst. Enjoy from a variety of stuffed, savory and sweet breads that are handy to carry around and make a filling meal, like chicken and cheese Pide and Simit.
Turkish Breakfast
The first morning that dawns in Istanbul brings the most pleasant surprise – the full Turkish Breakfast. Even if you are not a morning person or breakfast person, I’d strongly recommend trying this elaborate and delicious meal at least once during your stay. It’s like a mini buffet all served at once, on your table, just for you. Most hotels on Sultan Ahmet serve it as a complimentary part of your package. Even if they don’t, you can always go out to grab this experience at any Turkish café.
Istanbul Modern Eateries
While Taksim and Sultan Ahmet both sit on the European side of Istanbul, they are still separated by the Golden Horn. Golden Horn is a natural water way which gets it’s name from the horizon that turns golden at sunset. The new Glataport covers Karakoy coastline which was reconstructed in 2021. New Galata port is lined with modern restaurants that serve authentic and modern cuisine from around the world and offer fast WIFI. We chose Café Kirpi for drinks and snacks. Everything turned out to be delicious, especially the crushed ice lemonade with a view of the modern walk way that lights up at night as if some path on a galaxy.
Istanbul Things to Do
Bosphorus Dinner Cruise
Bosphorus is a sea that forms part of the continental boundary between Asia and Europe. One of the best ways to capture the essence of the Turkish experience in short time is to go on a Bosphorus dinner cruise. It includes good food (that keeps coming), great live entertainment and mesmerizing Istanbul night lights all around. There are many companies that offer Bosphorus cruise all day long. But the sunset and dinner cruise are most popular. You can book online or ask your hotel to arrange one for you. Istanbul’s Bosphorus waterfront has many of the cities best attractions, including the Bosphorus Bridge, that look stunning lit up at night.
Visit Hagia Sophia
Hagia Sophia which means ‘the Holy Wisdom’ in ancient Greek or Ayasofya in Turkish is officially known as the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque. This stunning piece of architecture is the highlight of all historic tourist attractions surrounding the Sultan Ahmet Square. The mystical city of Istanbul has hosted many civilizations over the centuries, of which Byzantium and Ottoman Empires were the most famous. The city today carries the characteristics of these two different cultures and surely Hagia Sophia is the iconic synthesis where one can observe both influences under one magnificent dome. The splendor of the place literally took my breath away!
Visit Topkapi Palace
Today’s Sultan Ahmet Square is the Hippodrome (a stadium for chariot races) which was built by Constantine the Great in the 4th century after the official declaration of Istanbul as the capital of Eastern Rome. Topkapi Palace is one of the oldest and largest surviving palaces in the world. Is this alone not reason enough to visit? The palace was built in 1465 and has housed countless sultans, servants, concubines and royal family members since. Besides the gold rimmed walls, bright blue tile work and spacious court yards, the Golden Ceremony Throne of Sultan Murad lll is a major attraction. As is palace museum that displays 380-piece collection of clocks which were produced over 400 years.
Visit The Princes’ Islands
Fancy a beautiful ferry trip from Istanbul? Then Princes’ Islands should be your destination. This group of nine islands is named after the Prices who were exiled in the Byzantium era. Only five of these islands are inhabited and most tourist activity is on the largest, named Buyukada. Mediterranean style bungalows and resorts lining the beach are a tiny dream world all on their own. The architecture is graceful, main bazar full of attractions and food in abundance. The antique stalls selling old book, posters and postcards got hold of my teenage daughters. While I found it very hard to pull myself away from the jewelry stalls curated by senior citizens.
Istanbul Shopping
Istanbul has a variety of shopping experiences. It is entirely different to visit a historic bazar like Spice Bazaar or Grand Bazaar from going to a modern shopping mall. These two authentic bazaars in Istanbul offer a nostalgic but complete shopping experience. They are filled with souvenirs – handmade carpets, gold jewelry, exotic spices and teas, delicious Turkish desserts and silk scarves await you here. Nisantasi is popular for boutiques, designer products and luxury stores. Kadikoy and Bagdat Street have a more relaxed outdoor shopping experience. If you are interested in low priced antiques, Balat Bazaar is the place to go.
But whether you are shopaholic or not, don’t miss visiting Istiklal Street. It has beautiful architecture, embassy buildings, hotels, banks and all big brand shops you can wish for. It can actually take care of all your shopping needs from clothes, handbags and suitcases to cosmetics, souvenirs and sweets. If you get too tired of walking, you can hop up the historic tram that runs from Taksim Square through Istiklal Street for a distance of almost one and a half kilometers.
